Before and After the Storm…

Gloucester harbor launch at dust

We were considering leaving Thistle in Maine for the winter. So we headed back to Gloucester as we researched our options. Although we had already been to Gloucester, Eric loves it here because it’s a working fishing community vs a tourist town. The storage options were ridiculously expensive in Maine so we decided to visit places we missed south of the Cape Cod.

Gloucester lighthouse
A classic catboat sailing in Gloucester harbor
Coastguard station in Gloucester

It’s a long run from Gloucester to the Cape Cod Canal. We heard rumors the famous boat Seraffyn was in Scituate, Ma so we sailed in that direction. We had a nice sail down. Sure enough upon entering the harbor there she was! Our boat is a slightly enlarged version of Seraffyn. Lin and Larry Pardey built her in 1968. They wandered and eventually circumnavigated the globe. Keep in mind she is a 24 foot wooden boat with no engine, electronics, or head! They navigated by the stars. Larry was a fabulous sea man trained in the old ways. Lin’s reputation as an off shore crew is second to none.

Seraffyn a 24’ Lyle Hess design that was sailed around the world west to east by Lin and Larry Pardey

Since our boat looks so similar, people stopped to make sure we knew Seraffyn was moored across the fairway. Before You tube, Lin and Larry were successful authors and chronicled Seraffyn’s adventures sailing the world. Seraffyn is known as the little boat that launched a thousand dreams. It meant a lot to see Seraffyn since Larry mentored Eric during the construction of our boat.

Seraffyn
Seraffyn

We stopped over night in Onset to have a good starting point heading into Woods Hole. Timing is very important getting through the Woods Hole passage because of extremely strong tidal currents. Dinghy docks are always interesting.

Dingy dock Onset Mass
Woods Hole Passage.

After the passage we sailed another ten miles to Vineyard Haven Harbor. Over the years it’s become a gathering place for beautiful classic wooden sailboats. Due in large part to the Gannon and Benjamin Boat yard and their talented traditional craftsman that keep these classic yachts in sailing condition.

Eric’s favorite boat the Schooner Charlotte from Vineyard Haven
Dingy at Gannon and Benjamin traditional boat builders Vineyard Haven Mass
A folkboat in Vineyard Haven Harbor
Classic small craft in Vineyard Haven

Then the wheels came off the bus! Mid week it was unclear where or if Hurricane Henri would make landfall in New England. By Thursday the storm had turned and was headed straight for Martha’s Vineyard. Thursday was extra special with Sharon requiring a trip to the hospital with kidney stones. The doctor insisted Sharon get off our boat and the island to be near medical treatment. Eric’s cousin Jenny came to the rescue. She drove to Woods Hole from Marblehead picked Sharon up at the ferry terminal and took her back to Marblehead away from the storm to be near medical care.

Now, Eric is alone in Vineyard Haven with the projected path of Hurricane Henri approaching his position in 48 hrs. A hurricane hole was picked and Friday morning he ran for it. While at sea the authorities started closing harbors including the one he was headed to. So he was forced to beat 110 miles west to the first safe port we could get into for sure. The wind was 18 to 20 kts on the nose with big swells rolling in ahead of the storm. 6 am Saturday morning as he approached port, Dave Simon who had been monitoring weather informed him the storm track had changed and headed straight for Branford. Dave and Eric joked the weather man had been so wrong – the safest place would end being where they predicted.

It took 26 hours to get to port. Upon arrival, storm prep on the boat had to start immediately. Anything that could become mobile in 100 knots of wind needed to be taken below deck. Sails were stripped, dinghy secured on deck, and all dock lines were doubled with chafing gear. A tremendous sense of community, sailors offering advice, help, and equipment to secure everyone’s boats. The crew at the Dutch Wharf hauled power boats on Saturday to make room for more sailboats running from the storm. When we contacted the yard, the answer was we don’t have room. But come anyway – we will make room or haul you out.

Dolphins feeding around our boat near Newport Ri

In the earlier hours of Sunday morning, the storm tracked shifted slightly east of our positions. This put us on the weak side of the storm. Therefore we never felt the full force of Henri and our preparation was over kill. You don’t know that until it’s over. When it was over a toast was made with the finest scotch aboard to being just plain lucky.

Sharon’ s book:

We were the lucky ones by Georgia Hunter

True story 5/5

Eric had no time to read!!

Safe travels! Eric and Sharon

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