We made a quick stop over night in Manchester. Our favorite part is always Manchester by the Book. The next day we headed for Boston with heavy rain and wind. Limited visibility meant I had to monitor the AIS because of all the commercial vessels in Boston Harbor. At least one of us was dry!

Water Boat Marine is in an ideal spot in downtown Boston. Look at the view for $75 a night on a mooring ball! After getting settled on the mooring, we heard the rumble of the halyards slapping the mast from below. Eric went on deck and nothing was wrong, this happened again and again. The last time, I yelled it’s happening. The noise was only below deck. The noise and vibration was caused by trains that run under the harbor. You get use to the train once you know your not losing your mind!

We played tourist the next day and walked the Freedom Trail. Tours are offered or you can follow the brick path on the ground and see all the sights. When Eric and Sawyer lived in Marblehead, we did this walk in 10 degree weather at Christmas time. My favorite part is The Old North Church.

Eric remembers going to the Boston aquarium before it was finished pre 1970. One hot afternoon, we decided to visit the aquarium and see the movie Ocean Odyssey. It chronicles the changing ocean currents and how they affect whale migration in the Southern Hemisphere. Dr. Sylvia Earle, a world famous oceanographer was featured in the movie.

The aquarium has a huge four story fish tank with 85 species with over 800 occupants. It has a spiral ramp so you can walk around all the different levels. We happened to be there at feeding time and watched Mrytle the turtle feed.

She was over 500 pounds and between 65 and 85 years old. She was acquired in 1970 from a turtle rescue. Once a turtle is full grown it’s hard to determine it’s age. Did you know turtles like lettuce?

It was fun to pet a live stingray in a shallow tank. Big kids enjoy it as much as the little ones. Several species of penguins, seals, and sea lions have a home here. If you have the opportunity to see this aquarium, it’s well worth the price of admission.

We spent one day sailing through the islands in Boston Harbor. It was a fantastic sailing day, it did require paying close attention to the chart! All the islands in the harbor are steep in Revolutionary history and a ferry service is available.

An 85 year old old Channel Cutter “Rose” from Falmouth, England was in the harbor at Water Boat. Research on this boat is on going, believed to have taken part in the civilian boat lift of soldiers from Dunkirk during World War II. The story of the boat lift is worth investigating. The boat is in need of a major restoration but funds are available if her history can be proven. Eric was able to direct the owner to Channel Cutter experts who may be able to help. Hopefully, she can be saved!

Eric’s books: Eagles over Britain by Lee Jackson

Story of the Battle of Britain 4/5

Zero Cool by Michael Crichton 3/5 no Jurassic Park

Thousand Faces of Night by Jack Higgins. 3/5

Sharon’s Books:

Little and Often by Trent Preszler.

4/5 memoir about the relationship with his father and his decision to build a boat. At one point I wanted to say, maybe your dad did the best he could!

The President is Missing by Bill Clinton and James Patterson. 4/5. Better than most Patterson books.

Stay safe and fair winds!

Eric and Sharon.

We just finished getting the dinghy in the water and Eric yelled Steve! It was Steve Stone the editor from Off Center Harbor that Eric has corresponded with. It’s a subscription vlog targeted to wooden boat building and traditional maritime skills. Absolutely recommend!

Steve was sailing a Caledonia Yawl which is a 19 foot double ended open boat. He was beginning a trip from the southern border of Maine to the northern border. It’s an ambitious voyage in an open boat on the Maine coast.

Due to COVID stopping everyone from sailing last year – Maine’s harbors are packed. The modern reservation system (Dockwa) for moorings and a lousy weather forecast for the following week was putting us in a stressful situation that was taking all the fun out. With a late start and a desire to truly see all that Maine has to offer, we have decided to back burner this part of the adventure for another season.

It’s interesting that Steve Stone on a small boat has an easier time dealing with this situation because of his shoal draft and ability to tuck into any harbor or cove to hide from bad weather. Thistle draws 5 feet so we have to compete for legitimate anchorages in low tide. Our lack of experience anchoring in tidal currents is a detriment and we have a step learning curve.

Eric is humbled by what Steve is doing. If interested, Google camp cruising. It’s a hearty, adventurous group that are real sailors!

In light of all that, we headed south to see places we skipped on our way north. We headed back to Newburyport because of the weather that was predicted. Newburyport had their Yankee Festival during our recent visit. Food trucks, art fair, and live music was everywhere in town. Without knowing for sure we could find a secure anchorage in Maine, we retreated from a bad storm which turned out to be the correct decision.

Leaving Newburyport we had a perfect down wind sail. At Rockport, we jibed to a beam reach to Gloucester with 20 knots of breeze. This was a marvelous day of sailing. Best one in two years. I sat on the bow for awhile – my favorite spot. The rocky shoreline was dotted with lighthouses, beautiful homes, working lobsterman. It was iconic New England.

Gloucester is one of our favorite harbors. Times have changed but Gloucester is an industrial lobster and fishing port welcoming to transient sailors. The harbor master, launch operator, and locals are making a tremendous effort to share their heritage. The Dory Shop builds lunnenburg style dories that would have fished on the Grand Banks. Eric’s visit to the Dory Shop was a chance for him to talk with Yankee Boat Builders. The guys were boat builders, lobstermen, and fishermen. They were as fascinated about the Great Lakes as he is with the ocean.

They told Eric about a family from Charlevoix, Michigan that brought their boats and fishing techniques to Gloucester and did well for themselves. He felt privileged to answer questions they had regarding epoxy since he knew and raced against the Gougeon brothers from West Epoxy. As a result, he was invited to sit and have a few beers. Some the topics were boat building, Great Lakes, fishing and making of the movie the Perfect Storm. These men had fished with the men lost on The Andrea Gail. They felt the movie did not portray their friends fairly.

The launch operators told us to check out Rocky Neck in Gloucester. It was full of art galleries we explored.

Sharon is ready for wind!

Going into Gloucester Harbor

Sharon’s books:

Here’s to All Elin Hilderbrand – fun beach read.

Flight Girls by Noelle Salazar – loved the historic information. 4.5/5

Eric’s books: Space Man by Mike Massimino

He flew two missions to repair and service The Hubble telescope. Fascinating account of the space shuttle era NASA. 5 stars for sure.

Finished a little knitting

Stay safe and fair winds. Eric and Sharon

We headed towards Gloucester after leaving Marblehead. The race committee had just started an opti race, so we watched the kids head towards the first mark before proceeding on. It takes a lot of volunteers and dedicated staff to promote sailing!

Gloucester is trying very hard to attract sailors and visitors after COVID. We had a nice walk around town and Eric stopped at one of his favorite places, the Dory Shop. Eric’s foul weather gear was leaking, so our son suggested Nelson’s. It’s the gear the lobster and fisherman wear. Seemed like a good investment since we have had our share of wet weather.

Jenny, Sarah, and Nicolas ran up to Gloucester to return my jacket. It was nice to see Nicolas before he heads to college. We went over to Rockport and I learned one of my favorite movies was filmed there, The Proposal.

American Yacht Club in Newburyport is the oldest continuing operated yacht club in America. It’s a lot like Crescent Sail Yacht Club so it feels like home. The members have work hours, beautiful view, and a friendly faces. The meeting room only has rocking chairs. The building that houses the shower was used by visiting shipwrights.

This boat caught Eric’s eye since he has a friend that was crippled until he was 10. All of his boats are called Impossible Dream. The track enables wheel chair bound people to move around the boat.

We finally made it to Maine our 9th state since starting this adventure. Kittery is the home of Portsmouth Naval Shipyard. Nights are getting cooler and another storm is rolling in….

Book Reviews: The Giver of Stars by Jo Jo Moyes

My favorite book this year.

We Are The Mulvaneys. 4 out of 5. Sad story, I had to put the book in time out. Loved the characters and writing!

Eric’s Book Reviews:

Wild at Heart by Miriam Lancewood A true story of adventure and survival. Highly recommend.

Friday, we departed Newport for Onset, Mass the start of The Cape Cod Canal. We left as the fog lifted and made it to the mouth of Buzzards Bay, before it returned with a vengeance. The next four hours I monitored the AIS system I. E. turning off collision course notifications, while Eric sailed the boat. When the fog finally cleared, we got a beautiful breeze from dead aft that helped push us up current as the tide turned. This made reaching the harbor in Onset much easier.

Once inside the harbor and rounding the corner to the mooring field, the first boat we saw was from Sarns Marine. Jante was restored the same time Eric was building Thistle in Tim’s yard. Eric and John had never met before but knew each other’s boat immediately. We shared a couple of meals and stories of Sarn’s yard. He left us with a parting gift of his Maine cruising guide. We are referencing it as we work on the blog.

We made a very short jump through the Cape Cod Canal due to a powerful current. Speeds unheard for a Bristol Channel Cutter.

Two speed boats were racing past the barge, they cut us off and turned so their wake covered our boat with water. I barely had time to save my hat! We arrived in Sandwich and I looked like I had been in a wet t – shirt contest. Not a good look!

Marblehead – where it all began. We started to Marblehead on a drizzly overcast morning. The weather prediction was light wind from behind. That quickly changed as multiple squalls came through. The wind went to dead on the nose 25-40 knots. The longest day on Thistle!

Jen offered us a guest room and we were more than happy to accept a hot shower and queen size bed. Time spent with family is special. We went through old photos, walked the town, played games, laughed and enjoyed the view of the harbor from the porch.

Marblehead Knits is one of my favorite knitting stores. It’s awesome. Jen and I went to an exhibit of J O J Frost in town. Interesting folk artist who painted on wood. They also have a special exhibit of Marblehead hand prints to celebrate 51 years.

Jen, Sarah, and Eric have been close cousins their whole lives. Their dad, Uncle George rowed Eric out into the harbor to see the sailboats, Graves Yacht Yard, and the Hood Sail Loft when he was 5. Sailing started here, setting a course for Eric’s life.

Books – Last Summer at Chelsea Beach rating 4.

Fair Winds. Eric and Sharon.

Sarah’s dog Tucker. Sweet old guy.

It was a hot evening in Mystic and Eric didn’t feel like rowing the dingy over a mile to town. So he rowed to the near by Clam Shack where I climbed up to the road and walked to get dinner. I climbed back down with two drinks and dinner. Unfortunately, the drinks didn’t survive me getting back onto Thistle. If it hadn’t rained, an ice cream would have been purchased also!

We decided to leave Mystic anchorage and go to Dodson Marine in Stonington,Ct. We are directly in the path of Elsa with an expectation of winds greater than 40 knots downgraded from 60 knots predicted. The boat is buttoned up. And we wait. Elsa should hit us at 4 a.m. on the 9th of July. Tropical storm Elsa hit us head on with first rain at 4 a.m. and building wind until noon. Then the eye passed over us and it was dead calm for 30 minutes. Within 5 minutes the wind shifted to the opposite direction and was blowing 40 knots. By 4 p. m. the storm blew itself out, we had clear skies and a sunny evening.

What do you do during a storm on a boat? Binged watch Virgin River and knit, of course!

July 10th – sailed from Stonington to Newport, R. I. with 6 to 7 foot swells on the beam and 25 knots of wind dead on the nose. Might be the most confused seas I’ve ever seen.

July 11 thru July 14 – We are on a mooring in Newport harbor waiting out headwinds and thick fog before we sail up Buzzards Bay to the Cape Cod Canal.

Books:

Wild Card by Stuart Woods 3

Green lights by Matthew McCanaughy 3

Best part of the book is listening to his voice!

We are excited to be heading to Marblehead for a visit with our cousins Jenny and Sarah on Sunday. Eric was first introduced to sailing in Marblehead Harbor. He always dreamed of sailing his own boat there. Hoping for fair winds, so we get to our mooring on time.

Have a great week! Peace!

Eric and Sharon

But not necessarily at the same time! A quote from my friend Tess.

We left home two weeks ago today to start our sailing adventure again. It’s been a tough time between the heat and rain getting the boat ready.

Eric had to sand & paint the bottom and then buff the sides of the boat. The first day we felt like we accomplished so much but the 90+ degree days wears you out. The yard was moving slower than usual also and our Monday launch turned into Thursday. We made good use of the time getting smaller projects completed.

Eric made a new dinghy in his quest for the perfect one. Oonagh is a wooden dinghy he modified to be nesting. He still needs a finish coat of paint but was waiting to work out any issues with stowing. The boat fits on the deck perfectly. This was one of his Covid projects

We spent most of Covid at my sister Karen’s house. It was tough leaving her and her two fur babies Franke and Johne. We are thankful she welcomed us into her home for so long. Eric and I also babysat for Bodie and Ruby for 2 1/2 months. Walking them twice a day kept me from gaining Covid weight in 2021!

We have waited two years for this adventure. Fortunately, we didn’t lose any close family or friends to Covid. Others were not so lucky. Family and friends have become dearer to everyone after this past year. It also makes leaving harder – my dad is 92 and my dear friend Rosemary is 96. I’m sad to miss the wedding of my friend Cindy’s son, and a baby shower for Anne’s first grand daughter. That’s the part where you can’t have it all at the same time! Thankfully, zoom and the phone will keep me in touch with friends and family. I’m planning a trip home in October during the Annapolis boat show.

First sail of the year on “Thistle” went smoothly. We only went 20 miles to Westbrook,Ct., Harry’s is a full service marina in case we had issues.

I’ve read a lot this past year. I will list only the best!

Into the Deep by Robert Ballard

Caste by Isabel Wilkerson

Diplomat’s Wife by Pam Jenoff

Last Bookshop in London by Madeline Martin

Girl Wash Your Face by Rachel Hollis

Four Winds by Kirsten Hannah.

I have many more… if you need ideas.

Knitting: I’ve been on a mission to use my stash. I’ve made baby socks from left over yarn and yarn chicken is my new favorite game.

Fair winds! It’s a beautiful hot day – I’m going to find a way to enjoy it.

If you are on Facebook, my friend Peg Campbell has started a group We Can’t Wait for survivors of auto accidents and changes to the laws. The auto companies may get the $23 billion all of us have paid into this fund by limiting care. Please contact your representatives and the governor.

Thank you Dutch Wharf for an uneventful launch!

Sharon and Eric

Thursday’s storm missed Mystic! When I settled up with the dock master, he gave us two tickets to return to the Mystic Seaport Museum. The museum has made several changes to be covid compliant.

Eric and I met Chris who is Vice President of Watercraft Preservation and Programs. Turns out Chris is from Michigan and we had a few friends in common. After chatting about the government boat they were working on, he said, “Do you want to see something really cool?” He took us to a warehouse where the donations they don’t have room to display are stored. Absolute treasure trove of American nautical history. They have the widest variety of engines Eric has ever seen. Many he had only read about. Small craft that ranged from Native American dugout canoe, walrus skinned Eskimo kayak, Laser sailboat #1 , and the original Boston Whaler. And everything in between sail and power.

The mermaids are made of ivory.

Sunday we ran into a little adventure. A boat neighbor’s propellor picked up a mooring chain laying on the river bottom during low tide and wrapped it firmly around the prop and shaft.

Eric spent the next two hours wrestling to unwind the chain since Bob was in his 80’s. Eventually, Bob’s grandson who was a diver showed up to finish the job. Good deeds in the sailing community don’t go unnoticed. Bob came over with a bottle of Newport Rum and his friend offered us a free mooring in front of his house in Old Saybrook.

Katherine Hepburn has a museum and cultural center in the town. Unfortunately, because of covid it isn’t open. The flower beds are beautiful.

On our way to see Katherine’s museum we met a singing 80 year old archeologist on the street corner. He is planning to have tourist trips to under water city in the Caribbean. Eric walked away with a new t-shirt and interesting conversation.

Today, we took an Uber to a delightful town of Essex. We walked around the water front , shopped the stores, and took a ferry to an island for a beer. We could not get an Uber or Lyft back to Old Saybrook. Eric was inquiring at the hotel about a bus, an elderly lady commented on his wooden boat t-shirt. She said if we could walk a mile to her house she would give us a ride.

Ina was recovering from back surgery and could barely walk. She introduced us to a monument for her daughter Morgan, who it turned out was a standard poodle. We learned how intelligent Morgan was and supposedly houses only stay on the market a day because everyone wants to live near Morgan. We were grateful for the ride in her Mini Cooper.

Eric’s books:

Finding Pax by Kaci Cronkhite 5. Must read for any wooden boat enthusiast

Typhoon Fury by Clive Cussler 3 predictable.

Valhalla Exchange by Jack Higgins. 4 fast pace

Sharon’s books:

Before and After by Judy Christie 4

White Lioness by Henning Mankell 3

I’ve been reading this book for 6 months. In the end I liked the book. I just got “ stuck”

Obviously, we had two days of solid rain.

Fair winds. Eric and Sharon

The past week has been good for our souls! We’ve been anchored back on the Mystic River behind the museum. We are seeing the affects of Covid on cruising. Last year, this area was packed with boats and now we have the place to ourselves.

Tourism is down in the area also. They are practicing social distancing and wearing masks. Bars in restaurants are closed. Dining is outside or carry out. A new donut shop opened in town called “Young Buns”. Worth checking out!

It’s nice to have the opportunity to test systems and work on the boat at a leisurely pace. We had to rearrange the contents in the boat since Eric felt it was listing to starboard. We now have everything neatly tucked away. Eric gave me three small pieces of wood for deep storage. The next day, he came up with a use for the wood. For the life of me I couldn’t remember where I hid them. After emptying every locker, I found them in the last place I looked. Behind the trash, under the sink.

Today around 5, an alert came over the phone for thunderstorms with heavy winds @ 60 knots and possible tornados in the area. The anchorage was very shallow with a soft mud bottom. We were trapped by a drawbridge with no open water to run to. Eric made the decision to move Thistle to the docks at Mystic Seaport Museum. Currently, it looks like the worse of the storm will pass by us. Since we are currently crashing, tomorrow we will have to settle up with the dock master.

Books:

Eric and I listened to Julie Andrews biography

Home Work. 5. I loved listening to her voice.

Silent Girls by Eric Rokstad. 4 good mystery

Eric ‘s book:

Killing the SS by Bill O’Reilly good read, solid history

Stay safe and fair winds. Eric and Sharon

We set sail on Tuesday for Westbrook, Connecticut and docked at Harry’s. It was a beautiful reach all the way. Wednesday was a nasty rainy day , so we stayed an extra night and we were so glad we did.

Lunch at Lenny and Joe’s Fish Tales was awesome. The best lobster bisque – large pieces of lobster in every bite.

Thursday morning, I started chatting with an elderly woman about her dog. She told me she cruised with her seven children. Eric said, “ Must have been interesting keeping that crew in line”.

Her response was Captain Johnson taught her how to keep a crew in line when she was a young girl. Turns out Captain Johnson was Irving Johnson, Captain of the Brigantine Yankee. The lady sailed on the last voyage of the Yankee when she was 18! She is a spry 87 year old now! Eric read all of Irving Johnson’s books about voyaging under sail when he was a lad – felt like he touched history today.

Eric posted a picture on Instagram of the coast guard sailing training ship “Eagle”. A man responded asking where we were since he was looking at the same boat. We were docked on opposite sides of the ship in New London. Turns out he owns a Herreshoff ketch called “Prudence” that is the sister ship of a boat our son worked on. Eric and our son were speaking about the sister ship just a week ago and we found her.

Prior to leaving Branford, I saw a man collecting crabs with two young girls.

Book Review. 5 stars best rating

Barefoot by Elin Hilderbrand 4

Beach read with great characters.

Secret Orphan by Glynnis Peters 3

Started strong …

A week ago we traveled from Michigan to Connecticut to reconnect with “Thistle”. Eric worked on a few projects during Covid i.e. a new sea hood, spinnaker pole, and winch bases. He also repainted the bull works once we arrived.

I spent my covid time reading and knitting. I also did my share of weeding and playing with my sister’s dogs Franke and Johne. Thank you to Karen for housing us during a pandemic.

Thistle was launched today at The Dutch Wharf. The next few days will be busy putting on sails, finishing a few projects and getting ready to leave.

Where are we headed? Great question and it all depends on Covid restrictions. Yesterday, Rhode Island was on the restricted list for several states. We will do a shake down cruise on Long Island Sound and evaluate the situation.

Hopefully, everyone stays safe and healthy!

Happy 95th birthday to our dear friend Rosemary. Love you!

Book Reviews – only the best books I read since my last post.

Everything I Never Told You. Celeste Ng

Dutch House Ann Patchett

Setting the Kites Free Alex George

Distant Shores Kristen Hannah

A Man Called Ove Frederic Backman

Cilka’s Journey Heather Morris

I highly recommend all the books above.